A long-haired cat looks like royalty when their fur is soft, shiny, and free of tangles. But that same coat can turn into a matted mess surprisingly fast if it is left alone. The good news is that grooming at home is not difficult. You need the right tools, a calm routine, and a little patience, especially at the start.
Why Long-Haired Cats Need Regular Grooming
Long fur is thicker than short fur and often has a soft undercoat underneath. That undercoat sheds constantly, and loose hairs tangle easily. A small tangle can tighten into a mat within days, especially where fur rubs together.
Daily or every-other-day brushing prevents this. It removes loose hair before it tangles, spreads natural oils through the coat, and lets you check the skin. Even a few minutes is far better than one long session once a week.
Brushing also helps with hairballs, because cats swallow loose fur when they groom themselves, and it builds trust — many cats learn to enjoy a calm session.
The Tools You Need
A wide-tooth comb. Your most important tool — it glides through long fur without pulling and finds small tangles before they become mats.
A slicker brush. Its fine wires remove loose undercoat. Use it lightly — press too hard and the wires can scratch the skin.
A de-matting tool. Its small, blunt blades split a mat apart without cutting skin — much safer than scissors for most mats.
Blunt-tip scissors. Only for mats, and only with great care — never cut close to the skin, or on a mat you cannot see through clearly. If in doubt, use the de-matting tool instead.
Cat-safe shampoo. Only use shampoo made for cats. Never use human shampoo, dog shampoo, or dish soap — these can dry out or irritate a cat’s skin.
A wide-tooth comb and a slicker brush are enough to start. For a dog-focused version, see our guide on grooming your dog at home.
How to Introduce Grooming Slowly
Many long-haired cats are not used to being brushed, and some will walk away the first time they see a comb. That is normal. In the first week, the goal is not a perfect coat — it is a cat who does not mind the brush.
Let your cat sniff the comb and brush, and leave them near your cat’s favourite resting spot for a day or two. Then try a very short session: a few gentle strokes along the back, where most cats enjoy being touched. Give a treat right away, and stop while your cat is still relaxed. Two or three minutes is plenty.
Choose a calm time, when your cat is sleepy or relaxed after a meal. Avoid grooming when your cat is playful, hungry, or annoyed. Sit in a quiet room without loud noises or other pets running around.
Watch your cat’s body language. A relaxed cat purrs or closes their eyes; a stressed cat flattens their ears, twitches its tail, or tries to walk away. If you see those signs, stop, offer a treat, and try again later — forcing a session teaches your cat to fear the brush.
Build up gradually, adding a minute or two each day and slowly including the sides, chest, and belly — saving the belly and hind legs for last.
A Step-by-Step Brushing Routine
Follow the same routine each time. A predictable routine helps your cat relax because they know what to expect.
Step 1: Start with the wide-tooth comb. Begin at the back of the neck and work down the back, combing in the direction of hair growth. Use long, gentle strokes. If you feel resistance, stop and work that small section separately — never drag the comb through a tangle.
Step 2: Work in sections. Divide your cat’s body into sections — back, sides, chest, belly, legs, tail — and work through one at a time. You can stop after a few sections and finish the rest the next day.
Step 3: Check the mat-prone spots. Pay special attention to behind the ears, the armpits, the belly, the hind legs, and under the collar. Mats often start there, so check them every session.
Step 4: Use the slicker brush lightly. After combing, use the slicker brush to remove loose undercoat. Brush in the direction of hair growth with light pressure.
Step 5: Finish with a final comb-through. Run the wide-tooth comb through the whole coat once more. If it glides through smoothly, you are done. If it catches, you have found a small tangle to deal with before it grows.
Step 6: Reward your cat. End every session with a treat or a few minutes of play. A cat who gets a reward after grooming will be much more willing to sit still next time.
The routine usually takes five to ten minutes. If your cat only tolerates three minutes, groom the back and sides today and the belly and legs tomorrow — little and often beats one long, stressful session.
How to Deal With Mats Safely
Even with regular brushing, most long-haired cats get a mat now and then. A mat is a tight clump of tangled fur that feels hard or lumpy. Mats pull on the skin, trap moisture, and can hide irritation underneath, so deal with them sooner rather than later.
Start with your fingers. Gently pull the mat apart with your fingertips, working from the outer edges toward the centre. This is slow, but it is the gentlest method and works well for small, loose mats.
If the mat is too tight for your fingers, try the de-matting tool. Hold the base of the mat close to the skin with one hand so you are not pulling on your cat’s skin, then split the mat into smaller pieces and comb each piece out.
Blunt-tip scissors are a last resort, and only for mats you can see clearly. Slide the wide-tooth comb between the mat and your cat’s skin first, so the comb acts as a barrier, then cut the mat above the comb, away from the skin, a little at a time. Never cut close to the skin — cat skin is very thin and loose, and easy to nick by accident.
Never pull a mat out by force. Pulling hurts, can tear the skin, and will make your cat afraid of grooming. If a mat is large, very tight, close to the skin, or your cat will not let you touch it, stop and book a professional groomer or ask your vet for help.
Bathing Your Long-Haired Cat
Most long-haired cats do not need frequent baths. Cats groom themselves, and regular brushing usually keeps the coat clean. A bath is only needed occasionally — if your cat gets something sticky or dirty in their fur, if the coat looks greasy, or if your vet suggests it for a skin reason.
When you do bathe your cat, use only cat-safe shampoo. Human shampoo is made for human skin, which has a different pH from cat skin, and it can dry out or irritate your cat’s coat. Dog shampoo is also not a safe substitute.
Keep the bath short and calm. Use lukewarm water, wet the coat gently without spraying water on your cat’s face or ears, and lather lightly. Rinse thoroughly — leftover shampoo can irritate the skin. Dry your cat with a soft towel and keep them in a warm room until the coat is mostly dry.
Many cats dislike baths — if yours becomes very stressed, do not force it. A damp cloth can remove light dirt, and a groomer can handle a full bath if needed. For a calmer approach, see our guide on how to bathe a cat without getting scratched. After a bath, wait until the coat is fully dry before brushing it — brushing wet fur can break hairs and create new tangles.
What NOT to Do
Do not pull mats out by force. Pulling hurts your cat, can injure the skin, and teaches your cat to fear grooming. Work mats apart gently, or get professional help.
Do not cut close to the skin. Cat skin is thin, loose, and easy to nick, especially around the belly, armpits, and hind legs. If you cannot slide a comb between the mat and the skin, do not use scissors there.
Do not use human shampoo, dog shampoo, or household soap. These can irritate a cat’s skin and strip the natural oils from the coat. Use only shampoo made for cats.
Do not brush against the direction of hair growth. Brushing backwards can pull and break the fur, and most cats find it uncomfortable.
Do not press hard with a slicker brush. The fine wires are meant to glide lightly over the coat. Pressing hard can scratch the skin and cause redness.
Do not force a grooming session. If your cat is stressed, scared, or trying to leave, stop. Short, calm sessions with treats build trust over time.
Do not skip the mat-prone spots. It is tempting to brush only the back, where it is easy, and skip the belly, armpits, and hind legs. Those are exactly the places where mats form first.
Do not groom a wet coat roughly. Wet fur is more fragile and tangles easily. Let the coat dry fully after a bath before you brush it through.
When to See a Vet
Grooming is a good time to notice changes in your cat’s coat or skin, because you are looking closely at them every day. Most of what you find will be minor — a small tangle, a bit of dry skin, or some extra shedding. But some signs are worth a vet visit, and it is better to ask early than to wait.
See your vet if you notice bald patches, red or irritated skin, sores, scabs, or flaky patches that do not improve. Sudden matting can also be a sign of a health issue — for example, if a cat who used to groom themselves stops, or the coat suddenly becomes greasy, dull, or matted all over. Possible causes include pain, arthritis, or dental problems, but only a vet can tell what is going on with your cat.
Also watch for excessive scratching, licking, or biting at one spot, a bad smell from the skin or coat, swelling, or a new lump. If your cat seems in pain when you touch a certain area, or suddenly dislikes being brushed somewhere they used to enjoy, mention it to your vet.
For nail care, our guide on how to trim your cat’s nails safely at home explains the same slow, treat-based approach.
FAQ
How often should I brush my long-haired cat?
Most long-haired cats need brushing every day, or at least every other day. A short session of five to ten minutes is enough to remove loose hair and prevent tangles.
What is the best brush for a long-haired cat?
A wide-tooth metal comb is the best starting tool, because it glides through long fur and finds tangles early. A slicker brush is useful for loose undercoat, but use it lightly, and a de-matting tool is worth having for the occasional mat.
Can I cut mats out of my cat’s fur myself?
You can, but only with care. Pull the mat apart with your fingers first, then use a de-matting tool if needed. Blunt-tip scissors are a last resort, and only if you can slide a comb between the mat and your cat’s skin to protect it. Never cut close to the skin, and never pull a mat out by force.
Does my long-haired cat need a bath?
Most long-haired cats only need a bath occasionally — if they get dirty, sticky, or greasy, or if your vet recommends it. When you do bathe your cat, use only cat-safe shampoo, never human shampoo, and rinse thoroughly. Let the coat dry fully before brushing it again.
Why does my long-haired cat keep getting mats?
Mats usually form when loose hair is not brushed out regularly, especially where fur rubs together — behind the ears, armpits, belly, and hind legs. Brushing every day or every other day, and checking the mat-prone spots each time, will prevent most mats. If matting suddenly gets much worse, mention it to your vet, as it can be a sign of a health issue.
Conclusion
Grooming a long-haired cat at home is a small daily habit with a big payoff. A few minutes of gentle brushing most days keeps the coat soft and mat-free, reduces shedding and hairballs, and gives you a quiet moment together with your cat. You do not need to be perfect — you just need to be regular.
Start with the right tools, introduce grooming slowly with treats and short sessions, and work in sections with a wide-tooth comb. Check the mat-prone spots every time, deal with mats gently before they grow, and only bathe your cat occasionally with cat-safe shampoo. If you notice bald patches, sore skin, or sudden matting, ask your vet.